Aniline leather Leather that's been colored using non-toxic, semi-transparent aniline dyes rather than pigments. Natural markings remain visible. (See semi-aniline leather) Beamhouse The area of the tannery where dehairing and liming occur – this is the first step of the leather making process. Buffing Grain of leather removed from a cattle hide with a mechanical buffing or abrasion machine to refine it further. Chrome or metal tannage This type of leather is tanned with chromium salts (primarily sulfates), alone or with another tanning agent. (See vegetable tannage) Crust Leather which has been dried immediately after the process of retanning. This is leather before the finishing process. Eagle Ottawa has the reputation of manufacturing the best crust in the industry. Drums Large vessels that turn and tumble their contents. There are drums for different leather making processes, including tanning, dying and softening leather. Drum dying Dyes and pigments are added to leather in drums. This process allows dye to fully penetrate into the leather fiber. Emboss Leather is printed or pressed with extreme pressure in a press to impart a natural grain or pattern design. Fat wrinkle Naturally occurring wrinkles on animal hides in areas of fat deposits. Finish A protective surface application of color of coating to leather applied after tanning. Full grain Original skin or hide with hair and epidermis removed, but retaining the original grain of the animal. (See grain) Grain The visible, natural pattern or texture on hide or skin created by pores, wrinkles and other natural markings. (See full grain). Hand An industry term for feel, softness and fullness of leather. Upholstery leather with good "hand" feels good to the touch. Liming A process used to remove hair and unwanted substances from hides. In addition to removing hair, the liming process plumps the hides to prepare them for tanning. Matte finish A flat, dull or non-shiny finish. Milling The softening of leather in large rotary drums. Mineral tannage Like chrome tannage, mineral tanning may use several mineral substances, including the salts of chromium, aluminum, and zirconium. (See chrome or metal tannage) Natural grain Leather which maintains its original grain. Natural markings Markings which are naturally occurring on animal hides. Includes scars, cuts and insect bites. Patina A surface characteristic that naturally occurs during the aging process, considered attractive. Perforation Tiny holes are punched or cut into leather in a pattern. Retan or Retanning A second tanning process used to enhance leather. Semi-aniline Leathers that has been dyed with aniline and then coated with a transparent or slightly pigmented finish to improve resistance to wear and light. Shrunken grain leather Full, natural-grain leather which is shrunken to augment the natural grain of the leather. Skive To shave, slice or peel leather into a thin layer. Split (split leather) The flesh side of a hide after it has been mechanically split into a uniform thickness. The top portion is called top grain and the lower portion is called a split. Often the splits are finished as suede. Splitting Cutting leather into two layers - top grain and split - before tanning. Spread The size of a hide, mechanically measured. Staking Precise mechanical softening of leather. A large machine vibrates the leather to soften it. Stucco After tanning, the leather is corrected by applying stucco to inverted natural markings. Tannin Natural, plant-based solvents and astringents used in tanning leather. Toggle drying Leather is stretched and toggled with special clips to a large frame and passed through a large heated tunnel to dry. Top grain The upper-side or piece of leather after splitting. The lower half of the leather is called the split. Trim Removal of parts and edges of hide not suitable for making leather. Upholstery leather Leather processed for use in furniture, such as vehicle seating. Vacuum drying Wet leather is smoothed over large, stacked heated plates. The plates are pressed together to create a vacuum that removes much of the water from the leather. Vegetable tannage Tanning leather using all or mostly vegetable tanning agents. (See chrome tannage) Wet blue Chrome- or metal-tanned leather results in a light-blue caste to tanned leather.